cook's guide - Herbs

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We\'ve come a long way since parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme were the typical herbs for the kitchen. Nowadays, supermarkets are likely to have fresh coriander, lemongrass and often more than one variety of basil available, reflecting our love of dishes from around the world.



Buying herbs

While it\'s handy to keep a few dried herbs in the larder, most taste best fresh, and some (such as basil) have a disappointing flavour when dried. Among the most useful dried herbs are oregano, bay and the herbes de Provence mixture. If you make a lot of Middle Eastern food, dried thyme and mint are also worth buying, but make sure you renew your jars and packets each year, as chopped dried herbs stale quickly.

Supermarkets now sell a wide range of cut herbs in packets, and some varieties by the cut-and-come-again pot. Pots of herbs can last longer, but need to be cared for as houseplants; otherwise you\'ll just wind up throwing them out. Depending on the types of dishes you like to cook, you may find it better to buy small packs of cut herbs and supplement them with a couple of favourites grown in the garden.

Remember that speciality greengrocers often sell a wider range of herbs than supermarkets do. Look out, too, when you visit farmers\' markets for unusual varieties such as salad burnet, angelica, lovage, pennyroyal, and uncommon varieties of thyme, mint and sage.

Herb collections

A bouquet garni is a bundle of herbs added to casseroles, stocks, sauces and soups. It traditionally comprises parsley (or parsley stalks, which have lots of flavour), a few sprigs of thyme and a bay leaf. These herbs may be bundled into a strip of leek or a piece of celery stalk, or tied in a muslin bag or with string, to keep them together during cooking and allow easy removal before serving.

Herbes de Provence is a fragrant mixture of dried herbs typical of southern French cooking. Exact recipes vary, but thyme, savory, rosemary and an aniseed-scented herb such as fennel or tarragon are typical. Marjoram or basil may also be included.

Fines herbes is a mixture of tender fresh herbs also used in French cooking, particularly with egg dishes such as omelettes. It is made from chervil, chives and tarragon, sometimes with parsley added.

Speciality herbs to try

A sprig of chervil - which looks like a petite feathery version of flatleaf parsley adds a final flourish to many a restaurant dish. It has a mild, sweet aniseed flavour and works well with fish, elegant soups, and butter sauces.

Curry leaves are increasingly available in supermarkets. A staple of South Indian cooking, they release a deliciously nutty aroma when briefly stirred in hot oil. Add them to curries near the beginning of cooking, just before you fry the spices.

Kaffir lime leaves are essential for Thai cooking. They have an unusual double-leaf shape and (although the flavour is completely different) are used in a similar manner to bay leaves - bruised and added to dishes early during cooking.

Shiso is familiar to many people in Britain thanks to its use in sushi and other Japanese dishes. Also known as perilla, it is used raw as a garnish rather than cooked and is worth trying if you like basil.

Borage was introduced to Britain by the Romans and grows wild in some areas. It tastes a little like cucumber and is good in salads, yoghurt or cream cheese mixtures, or served with shellfish. The leaves are furry, so they need to be chopped finely.

Sorrel can be treated as a herb, vegetable or salad leaf. It has a lemony taste and pointed leaves. It\'s a pretty addition to mixed salads and works particularly well with baby spinach.

Storing herbs

Cut herbs with short stalks should be wrapped in a plastic bag (left open, not sealed) or in a damp paper towel and kept in the fridge. Bunches of herbs with longer stalks can be treated like cut flowers: sit the base of the cut stalks in a tall jar or jug with a few centimeters of water in the bottom. If you are lucky enough to get coriander with the roots still attached, do not clean them: instead, simply keep them wrapped in a damp paper towel inside an open plastic bag and store in the salad drawer of the fridge, where they should last five to six days.

Some robust herbs, such as curry leaves, lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves, can be stored whole in the freezer, wrapped in a freezer bag. Sage can be stored in a jar, well-covered in coarse salt.

How long potted herbs bought from the supermarket last is variable and is affected by how much is cut off for use in cooking. They are best kept on a sunny window sill, with the soil regularly moistened. Alternatively, try planting them out in a larger pot on a balcony: a good plant will then last you the rest of the season.

Preparing and using herbs

Apart from those such as bay that are used whole, herbs are best prepared by picking the leaves from the stalks then chopping them as finely as desired with a chef\'s knife or a two-handled rocking knife (mezzaluna). Some people find it easier to cut bunches of tender herbs, especially chives, into small pieces with kitchen scissors and this is a handy quick technique to use when your dish is rustic or informal.

It\'s not always necessary to strip the leaves from the stems either: the stalks of dill and coriander can be chopped or snipped right along with the leaves and added to dishes such as soups and sauces.

Some tender herbs - particularly basil, tarragon and mint - bruise easily, a problem exacerbated by blunt kitchen knives. To prevent bruising and discolouration, avoid chopping these herbs finely and make sure you use a sharp knife. Alternatively, add the whole leaves to dishes, or tear them into small pieces with your fingers.

The volatile oils that give flavour and fragrance to the tenderest herbs dissipate quickly after exposure to heat, so it\'s best to add them to dishes towards the end of cooking, or just before serving. Robust herbs such as bay, sage, rosemary and common thyme are best when given time to meld with the other ingredients in the dish, so should be added earlier during cooking.

The tender herbs - basil, chervil, chives, coriander, dill, mint, parsley, tarragon and so on - can also be used raw and make delicious salad ingredients.

Buying salads

The range of salad leaves available in supermarkets is improving all the time. Where once it seemed that crunchy mild iceberg or soft round-leaved lettuces were the only option, now we can choose from a wide variety of textures, colours and flavours.

Ready-washed salad leaves are convenient but deteriorate quickly and sometimes are rinsed with chemical mixtures to prolong their shelf life. Look instead for those that have been washed only in spring water, or buy unwashed leaves.

Don\'t forget speciality greengrocers and farmers\' markets, which will feature more unusual options such as dandelion, purslane and Treviso in season.

Choosing salad leaves

Chicory, with its firm white heads and green or red tips, is a bitter, juicy leaf that works best in composed salads rather than tossed with other, softer leaves. Cos, or romano, best known as the authentic leaf for Caesar salad, is another stiff variety that works best as the star leaf rather than mixed with others. Little Gem is a miniaturised version of cos with frilly yet stiff leaves.

Curly varieties such as frisee, oak leaf, and lollo rosso or biondo, on the other hand, are best used in conjunction with others and together make a pretty tangle of salad. The mild flavours and variegated colours of oak leaf and lollo rosso complement the bitter taste and straggly texture of frisee.

Dark green rocket, watercress and baby spinach are all full of iron and have a strong flavour - peppery too, in the case of rocket and watercress. In salads they can be used together or interchangeably.

Corn salad, lamb\'s lettuce and mache are the same thing: delicate green round leaves with a buttery taste. Use them alone, or mixed with other leaves. The root is edible and can be included in the salad.

Iceberg (or Webb\'s Wonder) is a large, crisp, juicy lettuce with tightly-packed pale green leaves in a firm bowl shape. It is commonly served shredded but to appreciate its texture at its best, try it served in wedges, so that your teeth bite through the layers.

Radicchio has firm, cup-shaped leaves but is purple and white in colour and has a strong bitter taste. In its native Italy it is often served shredded. Alternatively, tear the leaves into bite-sized pieces.

Storing salad leaves

Salad leaves with dirt still clinging to them may seem inconvenient, but leaving them unwashed and, where appropriate, attached to their stem is the best way to keep them fresh. Store them in a plastic box or unsealed bag in the salad drawer of the refrigerator.

To prepare your salad leaves, separate them from the stem if necessary and remove any discoloured patches. Gently swirl the leaves in cold water (or a mixture of water and white vinegar if you\'re concerned about bugs). Repeat if necessary. A salad spinner will help you dry them quickly and gently - your leaves should be thoroughly dry before use so that they do not dilute the dressing.

Making salads

You only need one variety of leaf to make a lovely salad, though some (rocket, Little Gem) are a superior choice for single-leaf salads. If you want to make a larger salad, three or four varieties is plenty; otherwise the flavours will compete. Aim for a mix of leaf shape, texture, sweetness and colour, balancing, say, peppery rocket with mild, buttery lamb\'s lettuce and bitter, straggly frisée, plus a tender herb such as dill. Tear the salad leaves to the size preferred, unless you\'re making a chopped or shredded salad, in which case be sure to use a sharp knife to prevent bruising.

To dress your salad, put the chosen dressing in a large salad bowl and turn the leaves gently with your hands until the salad is evenly coated with dressing.

Growing herbs and salads

Herbs and salads are some of the easiest plants to grow and you don\'t even need a garden: a pot on a balcony or window ledge will do nicely. Beginners should try thyme, bay and sage, which don\'t mind infrequent watering, and mint, which grows profusely.